September: half-baked

Yesterday I noticed a group of men in a nearby field, drilling a bore hole: they seemed to be looking for the water courses. As the recent Edinburgh fringe joke goes, it is a well boring job.

The interesting thing was that, despite the recent rains, the soil coming out was bone dry. When a digger was bought in for the next stage, the clayey soil lay on the field like a cake baked at the wrong oven setting.

House insurers suck in their collective breaths in at the first sign of drought because every house with shallow foundations built on clayey soils is vulnerable to subsidence. The small particles contract in the dry, and cracks appear in the ground: if you are unlucky, they appear in your house too.

For gardeners, the remedy for this is compost and manure: lots of it, and preferably with worms in it.

Over time, organic matter will work its way into the soil and make it more fertile and easier to dig.  Although the soil particles of chalky soil are bigger and sandy soil, bigger still, the organic matter will have the same beneficial effects: greater nutrient retention and more stable moisture content.

Autumn, not spring, is the time to start planning your muck spreading. By the time spring comes, when you plants really need it, the manure magic will be underway.

So, when you are not heaving pitchforks over your head and getting into the spirit of recent BBC period dramas, there are a number of satisfying jobs to do in September:

·  Order your bulbs for planting later this month, or next month depending on how long a summer we are having.

·  Cover your pond with a net if you are worried about excessive leaf fall

·  Make a note of those herbaceous plants that have become less productive at their centre. They will need to be divided and replanted over the next few months, saving the most active parts and composting the dying core.

·  Keep watering newly planted tree and shrubs, even when the temperature begins to drop a bit

·  As autumn sets in, it becomes less and less risky to move trees and shrubs

·  Prune late summer flowering shrubs such as Philadelphus.

·  Raise the height of the blade on your lawn mower every week until mowing is no longer required later in the year. Feed the lan if it needs it but make sure it is an autumn, not spring feed or you will end up with very sappy, unhealthy grass.

Take heart. It won't be long before you can bake whatever you like outside on the dying embers of your leafy bonfire, in the safe knowledge that you will probably burn or under cook your potatoes, sausages and marshmallows - just as you did the year before. 

August: light relief

I could have gone outside and danced in that recent rain.

It really isn't hard to see why the ancients built monuments, devised rituals and worshipped the planets in an effort to control and predict the weather. My grasp of prehistory may have been unduly influenced by Asterix books, but I "get it" when it comes to nature and humankind: the stakes are very high. Back in the mists of time, climate change was one of the main causes of migration.

These days, our modern western society is largely impervious to fluctuations in the weather. Around the world, however, these can make or break rural communities. The big fluctuations are now coming home. Even as a garden designer in Hampshire these can been seen.

So, with a brief respite in the drought as plants drink in the recent moisture, there are a number of garden tasks that will help reduce water stress in your garden whilst you ponder the bigger picture and plan your eco-friendly holiday! They will also help you make the most of what you have got:

• Soak drought-stressed plants, especially ones planted this year.

• Keep your collection box off your lawnmower and keep the blade setting on high: the fine cuttings will reduce water loss.

• Don't panic if the lawn looks more like an African plain than a Hampshire garden. It will quickly green up again when the rains return.

• Lightly prune Lavenders and Hebes after they have flowered.

• Roses can be deadheaded after flowering, cutting back any weak or spindly growth.

• Prune climbing and rambling roses that do not repeat flower, taking out one third of the stems.

• Certain hedges should be pruned in August and, if it is hot and dry, in September too. This group includes: box, hornbeam, Conifers, hawthorn, beech, holly, privet, evergreen honeysuckle (Lonicera nitida) and yew.

• Remove blanket and duckweed from ponds using a rake or a net.

• When watering and topping up a pond, try to use your hose at a time when demand is low: early morning is probably best.

If the rains do come again this month, I am sure a rain dance is in order. 

If they don't, then why not do one anyway? Only your dignity, reputation and TV time to lose. 

July: i-watering

Well, if this weather doesn't persuade some of us to change our gardening ways, I am not sure what will!

There is nothing new in a British drought. However, free and cheap water on demand, short summers after wet springs followed by stormy autumns, are no longer a certainty. If ever there was a time to stand back and look at how and where you use your water, it is surely now.

So this month I am going to list ideas that hopefully will inspire and help you take steps that improve the storage and efficiency of garden water. You may need to make internet searches for more information, but I would like to introduce a range of options that are open to just about everyone with an outdoor space.

• Watering cans are more accurate and efficient than hoses or sprinklers.
• Keep the collection bucket off your lawnmower: let the cuttings stay on the lawn as this will reduce evaporation.
• Re-use 'white' water where you can: 'white' water is household water that has not been in contact with the toilet waste. Measures include putting the plug in when taking a shower and scooping out what would have gone down the drain. You can empty your washing-up bowl onto plants, leaving the last bit with all the debris to be put in the bin to avoid attracting unwanted pests. Try running a hose from your bath or at least re-using what you have run! 
• Fit irrigation systems activated by a timer: there are plenty of these on the market and by choosing the time and quantity to place where the outlets go, you can achieve a high level of efficiency.
• Plan areas of the garden to have drought-tolerant plants: these will mostly be from Mediterranean countries but there are also a number of native species that are indigenous to sandy and chalky soils and will cope with drought conditions. Plants from these categories include: Sedums, Euphorbias, Ulex (gorse), Alchemilla mollis, Cistus, Helianthemum, many grasses and most herbs. You could even create a 'scree' zone by laying a geotextile membrane and covering it with different sized pebbles for interest.
• Plan to apply mulch to your borders and specimen plants both in the autumn and in the spring: mulch (compost, manure, bark chippings, shredded coconut etc.) suppresses weeds that suck out valuable moisture in dry conditions, especially at the base of trees. Mulch also helps retain the moisture in the soil during drought conditions as well as adding organic matter to the soil.
• Add plenty of organic matter to the soil in the autumn. Again, this will help retain the moisture as well as nutrients.
• Create your own water storage systems: these can range from water butts to roof-water tanks set in the ground. There are a huge range of water butts now available on the market. They range from the usual green giants, to slim ones, to terracotta-looking butts and even a type with a fake metal finish. The attachments needed to make them operational are all readily available too. Some gardens have a series of water butts joined together that overflow one into another.
• Disconnect your downpipes and channel the water where it can be stored: you can even create a mini-swimming pool! Children love playing with water: I recently installed a water tank that doubles-up as a deep paddling pool fed by movable guttering and water courses. This can be bucketed out if your plants are looking desperate for a drink.
• Be creative: a few years ago I converted a cattle trough into a useful seat. It had a removable timber section to access the water: good to sit on and thoroughly useful!
• Don't be too alarmed if your plants are beginning to wilt: in this weather they will start to look a bit yellow and the lawn will lose its colour. This is the plant's way of closing down its system in order to survive. The plants to focus on are the ones that have been planted in the past year: these are the most vulnerable and should be the priority for watering. They are often the larger specimens such as trees. A bucket or two of water a week should sustain them in this drought.

Improving the efficiency of water use is firstly about getting the right mind set. Pardon the pun - but everything else flows from that. Who thinks about saving water when it is pouring with rain in April? Well, truth be told, the smart gardeners do.

I do hope I haven't ruined your bath time.

June: slugfest

It's all happening.

Shrubs are taking off, the newly-planted trees are showing new growth, blossoms are exploding and the borders are filling up. I would love to just press the 'pause' button and hold it right there. I guess that is why we look at images of the 'perfect' garden in books and why RHS Chelsea and other shows can be so appealing. They are a taste of paradise without the back ache.

I have to say that my borders do look very green right now. Unfortunately this is partly because of the fresh weeds. I like to look at it all from a distance so I don't see the weeds and be reminded as to what urgently needs doing. There are times when I would like to see my borders from an orbiting satellite.  

A very wise and very good gardener once told me, "You shouldn't have to weed! Pack the plants in and they will cover the soil and smother the competition". Best advice I have ever had. The truth is, if you are developing a border, you are likely to have bare patches whilst plants get established.

There are several good solutions to your bald patches (although be careful who you say that to). You can sow annual seeds (Cosmos and Lavatera have been a personal favourite) or even sow wildflower seeds. Failing that, use good old compost from the heap. If you are short of all the above - get some bark chippings. The problem with bark chippings however, is that they always scatter and invariably need topping up. They are also part of a long chain of industrial processes.

I have a reputation to protect as a garden designer in Hampshire so I rare;y recommend them!

So now to get up close and personal with your plants and your pests this month:

• Cometh the spring, cometh the slugs. Whilst slug pellets are quick and easy, they poison the wildlife that eats the dead slugs. Eggshells can be used around the base of plants. Beer traps are my favourite although I have just discovered they like cider just as much: fill up a houmous carton, or similar, and they will soon be on a journey to a merry end. Copper wire and bands around pots will do the trick as well.

• Newly planted trees and shrubs will need plenty of water and nutrients: don't be afraid to add fertiliser and generous amounts of water.

• It is not too late to use lawn fertilizer. Be careful when you apply it: extremely dry conditions are to be avoided. 

• Cut back any remaining foliage on spring bulbs.

• Divide Hostas as they come into leaf.

• Prune the shrubs that have completed their spring flowering, concentrating on the stems that have just flowered.

• Trim evergreen hedges such as Buxus (box), Ligustrum (privet) and Lonicera (honeysuckle).

• Caterpillars, aphids and other pests will all be trying to get into the action (and who can blame them?). Insecticide should be a last resort. Try removing them by hand or spraying a very, very diluted mix of washing-up liquid first. Having healthy, vigorous plants is the best deterrent. 

• Prune deciduous magnolias once they are in full leaf.

• Cut back the tender Penstemon, Caryopteris and hardy Fuchsias.

• Thin out and cut back Clematis montana once it is over. 

• Hoe or hand-weed the emerging weeds to keep them at bay.

And once you have put in a good session and are feeling virtuous, you can top up your booze traps, or anything else that needs topping up - if you know what I mean.

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May - it be spring

I'm confused.

Today, in Hampshire, it is spring. Yesterday felt like autumn and the day before that - winter. I have had bursts of horticultural enthusiasm whilst battling with a voice in my head that whispers "Forget it mate - it isn't even spring yet".

Staring at the calendar gives me the hard facts I need. It quells my inner couch potato: next month has the longest day of the year, my birthday, Wimbledon and back ache from trying to play cricket again. So I had better get on with it!

Jobs for May include, (or should I say "enjoyable tasks" to keep your inner couch potato from grabbing the steering wheel?):

• Lift and divide overcrowded clumps of spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils.
• Get your mowing underway if you have not already done so. Start at a high setting and reduce the height of the blade as the season progresses. Feed your lawn with a suitable nitrogen-rich fertilizer.
• Prune spring-flowering shrubs when they have finished flowering. This category includes Chaenomoles (quince), Choisya and Ribes.
• Get stuck into the large Spireas and Clematis montana by thinning out a third of the growth.
• Trim evergreens such as Viburnum tinus and show the prickly Pyracanthus who is boss by cutting back the shoots that are getting away.
• Watch out for Viburnum beetles: despite their size they can be highly destructive . Try removing these pesky little blighters by hand before resorting to chemical warfare.
• Thin out aquatic plants. It is still a good time of year to plant new ones too.
• Keep on top of the weeds by hoeing.
• Be patient with bedding plants: if you do buy and plant them out then be aware that there are probably a few frosts still to come. Protect your infant displays with some sort of horticultural fleece.

And even if it rains a bit - water, water, water - your shrubs, your new trees, your bedding, yourself, your children...you get the picture.

Then sit back and enjoy whatever season it happens to be that day - I gather we are in for some pay-back after all that rain!

For more images and inspirations try:

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April: springing up

Yes - it is here: hard to believe, but spring has arrived. 

It is time to try to fight your way to the back of the shed to find the garden tools and to start the mower. I think that may be why Bank Holiday Monday was invented, but I may be wrong.

There is just enough time on a long weekend to work your way through the cardboard boxes from Christmas in the shed and the impossibly interlocking tools, just enough time to drag the mower out and give the starter cord a really good tug. Just enough time, in fact, to really put your back out. 

You then have all of Monday to lie on the floor groaning and being stepped over by others as you attempt to swallow dangerously high levels of painkillers, dribbling most of it onto the floor. Struggling to hold on to your dignity, you think "Is this what it will be like?". Or am I just talking about my own experience here?

The trick of course is not attempt to get your mower to do things it was never intended to do - like start cold with a blocked fuel pipe and threadbare cables. Put it in for a service or make time to raise it up onto a workbench in order to give it a good going through. 

Other options include buying electric mowers or even self-propelled ones, though I am not a fan of the latter. They creep around with a sinister hum, looking for offensively tall blades of grass. As far as I am concerned, they'd be acceptable only if they were to bring out the drinks with nibbles and call you "Sir". If all else fails, buy some sheep. Garden designers in Hampshire just don’t get the respect they deserve!

So - if the thought of tackling dysfunctional, motorised garden technology fills you with fear and loathing, there are other more attainable goals to focus on this month:

• Cut back any remaining Cornus (dogwood) and Salix (willow) to bring out the best of their colour next winter.

• Cotinus (smoke tree) and Sambucus (elder) can also be cut back hard to ensure the best colours for the summer and the autumn. You can leave a framework of stems if screening is needed.

• Container-grown trees and shrubs can be planted now, but it is too late for bare-root or root balled plants. Mulching the newly planted trees and shrubs with compost, bark chippings or anything to keep the weeds off and the moisture in, will reduce the amount of watering required during their first season.

• Variegated plants can often begin to revert back to a single colour. By pruning out the single coloured stems, the variegation will remain. Eleagnus and Weigelia often do this.

• Hardy annuals such as sweet peas sown directly into the ground are worth the risk of frost damage as you will get an early summer show if they succeed. 

• Weed and feed your lawn, being very careful to apply the correct dose in the correct conditions.

• Avoid replacing roses in their same position as they will be affected by the toxic waste of the previous roses.

• With the warmth come the pests: many, such as whitefly, can be simply squeezed or pulled off at this time of year but prepare for the inevitable slugs and snails.

• Cometh the sun, cometh the weeds: on a sparse bed, matting and bark chippings are highly visible ways of weed control, but as a border fills out, shade from the plants and hoeing are equally effective.

• Watch out for brackets of tree fungus that can burst out on trees at this time of year. Bracket fungus spreads easily and is pretty destructive. It will need the attention of an expert.

• If you want to increase the chance of hedgehogs making their way through the garden, cut out a hole at the base of your fence so they can roam looking for food and company.

Above all, don't be afraid to tackle jobs and to try out new ideas in your outdoor space. Few of us will have show gardens, so don't let it become a chore: relax and enjoy it. 

As the saying goes - the bugs don't bite: only the mower does sometimes.

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March: a flat white

Who would have thought that a week ago, fired up by the spring sunshine, many of us would have rushed out to work in the garden? As it is, I have been snowed in at the end of an icy track in the depths of Cornwall rather than designing gardens in Hampshire.                                                                                                                                                                 Not that I am complaining: yesterday I went down the side of a hill in a kayak followed by a golden retriever - an adventure that ended in a close encounter with a bramble hedge. The sacrifices one makes in pursuit of harmony with nature eh?                                                                                                                                                                 On the subject of snow, it is interesting to note that snow in itself very rarely finishes a plant off. Snow actually as a thermal layer: think igloos and eskimos. It is the frost that causes the water to expand that damages the cell structure of plants and it is this that causes them to go limp.                                                                                                          Winter damage done by high winds causes die-back due to de-hydration and more often than not, water saturation of a root system will effectively 'drown' a plant by inhibiting its supply of air to the root system.                                                                                                           That is why planting a tree or a shrub at the correct depth and with the appropriate soil is so important: it can make the difference between a struggling or a flourishing plant in years to come.                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Part of the work in March therefore, is to prune plants to ensure that the spring growth has the best chance of succeeding:

• Prune roses and add a suitable fertiliser that will boost the flower growth in the coming season. Any fertiliser containing a high level of potassium (K) will do the job. Spread mulch around the base of the plant to help keep moisture in and the weeds at bay.
• Prune the dead growth of climbers when the worst of the frosts are over. Honeysuckle (Lonicera), ivy (Hedera), actinidia (Aktinidia kolomikta) and the winter-flowering jasmine (Jasmine nudiflorum) will all have signs of new life appearing. Just cut back to the new growth.
• Cut back the stems of dogwood (Cornus) and willow (Salix) when their vibrant colours start to fade. Commonly known as coppicing, this technique of taking the stems down to 5-7cms from the ground will prolong the life of your plant and promote colourful stems the following year. The cuttings are also great for flower arranging and even weaving.
• Deadhead the daffodils but leave the foliage as this enables the bulbs to be fed.
• Scrape off the top few inches ( 5cms) of large potted plants and replace with fresh compost giving them a sprinkling of slow-release fertiliser at the same time.

If your attempts to garden are so inhibited by the weather that you can't actually see your hand at the end of your arm, then it is probably time to do something else. I recommend finding a dog and a kayak and having a bit of fun outside.    

Don't feel guilty: just call it field research.

February: cruel to be kind

I love this time of year: it is all about promise.

Yes, there are the horribly gloomy days when a duvet and a hot drink are the only things that appeal. However, with the temperature slowly rising and the days getting longer, there are plenty of things in Hampshire gardens to beckon us out. Every foray into the garden reveals another sign of life: those who are keen will already be preparing for spring.

                              A very practical advantage of gardening at this time of year is the fact that deciduous plants still have no leaves: it is easier to see what you are doing. I can get at all those annoying docks (Plantains)with my spiked weeding trowel and dig out the overwintering perennial grass weeds without having to fight through walls of greenery.  Likewise, trees and shrubs are far more accessible at the time of year when many of them are best pruned.

Remember - the main reasons for pruning are to remove dead or diseased growth, to shape a plant and to improve the air circulation and access to sunlight. All these factors will help keep your plants healthy. 

Mulch and feed all plants after pruning to bolster the replacement growth. Bark chippings over a handful of slow-release, organic fertiliser such as 'Growmore' or 'Blood, Fish & Bone' will do the job, as will any well-rotted manure or compost.

So, on the 'to-do' list is:

• Between now and mid-march and after the heaviest of the frosts, many summer-flowering species can be cut back hard to encourage vigorous spring growth. This category includes Buddleja, Hydrangea, Ceratostigma, Leycesteria, Perovskia, hardy Fuchsias and deciduous Ceonothus. A rule of thumb as to how far to cut is: prune down to approximately one tenth of the existing height of the plant.

• Avoid pruning the deciduous Prunus species (almonds, ornamental cherries and plums) as they can be susceptible to silver leaf if pruned before the summer.

• Snowdrops can be lifted and divided after they have flowered and whilst the shoots are still green and vigorous.

• Trim winter-flowering heathers (Ericas) after flowering.

• Climbers such as Virginia creeper and ivy can be chopped back to keep them in order.

• Winter flowering jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) can have their new shoots tied into the main framework and their lateral growth shortened to about 5cms from the main stems.

• Clematis are a bit more complex. They can be cut back to the lowest, most vigorous pair of buds the variety belongs to Group 3 (check the label).

• Nesting boxes for birds put up now will enable them to check out their potential homes before calling the removal men and starting a family.

• Wait until mid-spring before turning your compost heaps as hibernating frogs, small mammals and possibly some small gardeners may still be over-wintering there.

A bit of late winter drama by way of pot-grown bulbs and primroses will not only give a bit of a colour show but will also support and encourage bees emerging from hibernation.

Not a bad gift then for humans who find it difficult to get out of bed. A few of those on the bedside table may just do the trick.

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January: signs and wonders

If you really look, January can be full of surprises - and they can be a lot nicer than the one you get glancing at a Christmas credit card balance.

When heaping my vegetable peelings into the compost bin yesterday I saw a green woodpecker (which, confusingly has a red streak on its head) pecking its way into the lawn looking for ants. Beautiful. A variety of birds, including other types of woodpeckers can be attracted to your garden by drilling holes into a small log and filling it with suet or another cooked food mix and then hanging it somewhere away from predators.

Another surprise has been the vibrancy of the green in the emerging Helleborus and the purple glow of Cyclamen in the fading Hampshire light. These are welcome reminders that the shortest days are now over and more life and light are to come.

Daffodils are now beginning to show their shoots - so mind where you step on the lawn! Shrubs such as Hamamelis (witch hazel), Chimonanthus (winter sweet) and Sarcoccocca (winter box) are now flowering in all their scented glory. It is some inspiring to see and smell these when designing gardens in Hampshire.

So when you are not out sniffing (or in some cases, sniffling), there are plenty of jobs to do to work off your own personal Christmas glory:

• Remove old leaves from hellebores in order to show off the emerging new flowers.

• Re-cycle your Christmas tree rather than just binning it.

• Tie in wall shrubs and climbers cutting back ivy and virginia creepers where they are encroaching on windows and gutters.

• Prune wisteria in the next few months to two or three buds from the old wood.

• Check tree ties and stakes are secure, especially after these high winds.

• Sweep worm casts on the lawn and fork any areas that are becoming waterlogged. 

• Prune apple trees and pears. For more advice on how to do this look up:  www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=90

• If the temperature really drops then make sure your more tender plants including peaches and nectarines are covered with a fleece or polythene.

With all the packaging that comes our way over Christmas there will be plenty of material such as bubble-wrap to use as insulation where it is needed. And there is no loss of face in wearing two pairs of socks, gloves and underlay to keep up your own insulation, especially when it is damp.

Talking of faces, I wear a good old balaclava when the wind is at its most biting. Please don’t then do what I did which was to cycle through Romsey town with a black tool tube tied to you back.

Not the brightest things to do unless you want to look like are going to start the New Year with a bang.

December: from the sublime to the recycled

Okay - I can finally bring myself to say the C- word. Here in Hampshire, the street lights are on, the daft jumpers are out and the junk mail has built up a head of steam.

There are always ways of making the festive season a little less trashy.

For starters, if you can get your compost and recycling bins organized before the brandy-soaked pudding kicks in and if you can buy wrapping paper from responsibly sourced suppliers, you will at least be a few steps along the path of recycling redemption. There are also an ever expanding range of festive goodies made from sustainable sources. 

A quick pause to think about how you are going to get rid of 'stuff' you don't want or need, as well as how you are going to shop for it, can go a long way. It is amazing how much one collects when being a garden designer in Hampshire!

A useful tip for when you buy a Christmas tree: choose a Pine (Pinus) or a Fir (Abies) species as the needles remain longer than the classic Norway Spruce (Picea abies) - unless you enjoy vacuuming around fairy light cables and catching falling Christmas trees.

When you buy a tree, cut off the bottom 5-7 cms and place the tree in a bucket of water away from a radiator: this will help to keep it hydrated. Stabilizing the bucket with bricks or stones will lessen the chance of an accident.

If the TV/shopping/relatives/barking dog/sugar-high youngsters get too much, there are several jobs to do outside:

• Share the surfeit of food with the wildlife, especially the birds who are now beginning the hard work of surviving the winter.

• Keep raking off the leaves and adding to the compost heap with a layer of soil every 30 cms or so.

• Check tree and climber ties: high winds can blow these around until they work their way loose.

• Acers, birches and vines can all be pruned now as their sap has stopped rising and so they will not "bleed".

• Overgrown apples and pears can be pruned too but look for further advice on the RHS website if you are not sure how to tackle this.

• Avoid pruning ornamental cherries, plums and almonds: that is for the spring/end of winter.

• Simply cutting back your faded herbaceous plants and tidying up any debris can create a really nice sense of order in your garden.

• If you are keen to get stuck into something challenging, now is the time to start spreading and digging in horse manure and composts to improve the structure of your soil. The better the structure, the better it will drain and hold onto the life-giving humus.

• Remember - it is water rather than cold that will often kill a plant in winter, so be alert as to where there may be flooding. Leap into action with the fork to deal with this problem. 

Watch out if you try to sneak out for a swift one when there is a frost on the ground: frosty grass has the unfortunate habit of leaving tell-tale footprints for a long time. Not very good when they aren't in a straight line either.

Wishing you all a very, very Happy Christmas!