I moved a lot of mulch this week: well, to be more accurate, the gardening team with me helping a bit did. 10 cubic metres of it in fact.
That is a lot of hot baths, ibuprofen and ice packs.
The satisfaction comes from not only seeing tidy borders with a carpet of compost on them but knowing that the annual weeds can’t get a grip on the borders for a season.
Mulch comes in all shapes and forms. It is essentially a layer that prevents airborne seeds contacting the soil; it can improve the structure of the soil if it is organic and can help retain moisture and warmth. Organic mulch includes well-rotted horse manure, shredded branches, twigs and crop residues, coconut fibre, bark chippings and purpose-blended leftovers garden waste.
Old carpets, cardboard, geo-textile matting and even paper can also be used as weed suppressants though they are not very pretty.
Now is the time to mulch: the vegetation on deciduous plants have largely not re-appeared making access easier and the pressure of keeping on top of everything when the growing really gets underway, has not yet built up.
There is definitely a bit of a smug “aaahhhhh”moment when it is mission accomplished.
This is a contrast to the hysterical “AAAGGHHHHH” moment that comes later in the season when it feels like it is all getting out of hand.
So – it is a good idea to get ahead with the tasks that you can do now:
• Keep planting bare-root trees and shrubs but wait until the end of the month before you plant or move evergreens.
• Cut back dogwood and willow shrubs with the vibrant stems if you want them to produce strong colours next winter. Taking them down as far as 100mm (4 inches) from the ground is fine. (The ‘Winter Flame’ varieties should be left for a few years until they are established). You can leave this till late in the month or even next month if you are enjoying the stem colours.
• When the worst of the frosts are over, divide and replant clumps of herbaceous plants that have become too dense for their own good.
• In heavy soil and cold areas, march is the best month for planting roses. Prune bush roses by about a third of their height.
• In preparation for the new growth and flowering in the summer, prune Buddleja, Caryopteris, Ceratostigma, Hydrangea paniculata, Leycesteria, Lavatera, Perovskia and hardy Fuchsia. Look up how far back they should be pruned: this will vary according to what you are trying to achieve and the location of the plant. A general rule of thumb is 80% of their existing foilage.
• Mow lawns but on a high cut setting and not when frosts are about to appear as it will damage the lawn.
• Plant and divide snowdrops and winter aconites.
• Plant summer flowering bulbs and sow some seeds such as sweet peas.
• Cut back ornamental grasses, even if they do not look unruly, as this will make way for new growth.
• If the dry weather persists, be prepared to do some unseasonal watering of newly planted out plants.
There is another type of “aaahhgggg” moment which involves a kettle and stretching out on a flat surface. Followed by the last one at the Osteopath. Let’s just leave that one for now.